The online presence of Tim Collier. Photographer, course leader, lecturer and blogger.
Late October most of the boats stop for the winter season, but I was lucky enough to gat a place on one of the last ones out of Ellenabeich, hoping for some good views of the White-tailed eagles that inhabit this area of Scotland in fairly good numbers.
We were heading off the island today towards Ellenabeich and Easdale when just passing the front at Cullipool I spotted an otter fishing in the bay. Carefully parking up and stealthily moving to a good vantage point each time the otter dived, I ended up with a prime view of this elusive mammal, which frequents the coasts around much of north west Scotland. It’s unusual to get so close and to clearly be seen by an otter as we faced each other for a few seconds.
We were off Iona on the early ferry and not booked on the Craignure ferry till about 4.00pm, so giving us a few hours on Mull. If you only a few hours on Mull then best to had round to Loch na Keal for as good a chance of White-tailed Eagles as anywhere, as they tend to sit out on the skerries with a recent catch.
Our last full day on the island. Early morning saw us visit the Abbey and Abbey museum, before any of the boats arrived from the mainland. It was wonderful to have it all to ourselves and be able to savour the special atmosphere that pervades in and around the buildings. Later in the day it would become the tourist honey pot that it is, but for now we were the only people there.
Up to the north yet again in the afternoon and the rain got heavier and heavier. On the sands at Boundary Strand the Sanderling were back and two Knot appeared from somewhere over Calf Island. They were struggling against the increasing wind and now persistent rain.
The forecast was right! Early morning it was threatening and getting darker with the wind beginning to strengthen. I like these conditions even if it can make photography a little challenging.
With the weather still holding and a wet day forecast for the morning, I took the road out to the north of the island again in the afternoon. The white sands of Strand of the Seat were pulling me back, the waders had gone but the waves were turning beautifully on the sands.
Fingal’s Cave
The morning was all about a trip out to Staffa and Fingal’s cave. We’d rescheduled it as the weather on the following day did not look too promising. We got it right, although I do really prefer dramatic sea conditions but the boats simply won’t run on such days!
Perhaps the highlight of the day for me, although the landscape views across to Mull and beyond were very special, was coming across a small group of waders on Traigh-na-Criche (Boundary Strand) on the north of the island.
So the afternoon came with heavy showers before settling down to a fine day with a good breeze. It’s about a mile and a half from where we were staying to the north of the island, passing the ruins of the Nunnery and the iconic and atmospheric Abbey, which I would visit at length on another day.
Keeping local on our last day we took the short walk down to Rhue Lighthouse, just north of Ullapool, before heading back to where it all started; the walk from Fisherman’s Cottage down to the edge of Loch Kanaird. The wind had in no way abated and we were treated to some wonderful and spectacular light and further intense squalls at both locations.
…. and so to the last full day up in the high north. With two days travelling to come and 600 miles to cover to get home to Wales we’d decided on a slower day. We felt we’d got so much done the previous days that we could afford a quieter morning. It was to be anything but!
From Stoer we moved a little south to Balchladich Bay, still on the west coast so taking the full force of the gale. Really difficult working here with stinging rain coming directly at us. The rocks once again were treacherous but seemingly dancing with the rain glossing and polishing them.
Day five saw us heading out to Stoer lighthouse, on one of the most exposed headlands on the north west coast of Scotland. We took the quick route up, rather than on the ‘Mad wee Road’. So to Ledmore junction first, before swinging left up to Inchnadamph and then into Lochinver past Loch Assynt.
