The online presence of Tim Collier. Photographer, course leader, lecturer and blogger.
Following the forecast over the last few days it was apparent that today was going to be a wet one. Nothing wrong with that, it just adds a different dimension and changes the way you approach the day. Having explored a fair amount of the Island, it felt right that we should move on to the mainland, and we had a particular place in mind.
Luing is a small island so it’s possible to see a fair amount of it in a short time and with the light fading by 4.30pm at this time of the year (early November) getting to a few places, north, south, east or west is doable. After Ardinamir Bay we headed to the west of the island, to Black Mill Bay.
The morning was spent on the east coast of Luing, at Ardinamir Bay, over looking the island of Torsa. The tide was out and the sky a rich deep October blue, with not a soul around.
We were staying about as close to the shore as possible and so every morning and evenings, when we were back early enough, we would take a tea out and sit and watch sunsets and moon rises. Luing is famous for its sunsets particularly, with a vast open expanse of sky, and a wonderful foreground of Hebridean islands to set them off.
Late October most of the boats stop for the winter season, but I was lucky enough to gat a place on one of the last ones out of Ellenabeich, hoping for some good views of the White-tailed eagles that inhabit this area of Scotland in fairly good numbers.
We were heading off the island today towards Ellenabeich and Easdale when just passing the front at Cullipool I spotted an otter fishing in the bay. Carefully parking up and stealthily moving to a good vantage point each time the otter dived, I ended up with a prime view of this elusive mammal, which frequents the coasts around much of north west Scotland. It’s unusual to get so close and to clearly be seen by an otter as we faced each other for a few seconds.
We were off Iona on the early ferry and not booked on the Craignure ferry till about 4.00pm, so giving us a few hours on Mull. If you only a few hours on Mull then best to had round to Loch na Keal for as good a chance of White-tailed Eagles as anywhere, as they tend to sit out on the skerries with a recent catch.
Our last full day on the island. Early morning saw us visit the Abbey and Abbey museum, before any of the boats arrived from the mainland. It was wonderful to have it all to ourselves and be able to savour the special atmosphere that pervades in and around the buildings. Later in the day it would become the tourist honey pot that it is, but for now we were the only people there.
Up to the north yet again in the afternoon and the rain got heavier and heavier. On the sands at Boundary Strand the Sanderling were back and two Knot appeared from somewhere over Calf Island. They were struggling against the increasing wind and now persistent rain.
The forecast was right! Early morning it was threatening and getting darker with the wind beginning to strengthen. I like these conditions even if it can make photography a little challenging.
With the weather still holding and a wet day forecast for the morning, I took the road out to the north of the island again in the afternoon. The white sands of Strand of the Seat were pulling me back, the waders had gone but the waves were turning beautifully on the sands.
Fingal’s Cave
The morning was all about a trip out to Staffa and Fingal’s cave. We’d rescheduled it as the weather on the following day did not look too promising. We got it right, although I do really prefer dramatic sea conditions but the boats simply won’t run on such days!
Perhaps the highlight of the day for me, although the landscape views across to Mull and beyond were very special, was coming across a small group of waders on Traigh-na-Criche (Boundary Strand) on the north of the island.
So the afternoon came with heavy showers before settling down to a fine day with a good breeze. It’s about a mile and a half from where we were staying to the north of the island, passing the ruins of the Nunnery and the iconic and atmospheric Abbey, which I would visit at length on another day.
